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Love on a plate

ALLISON BRUNHAM USED used the power of a derogative term to create a bright and fruitful business.

She was born in the United States and when she was growing up as a child in the 1980s the term coconut was used to insult people of Caribbean descent: “When I lived in the United States people would tell me, “Oh, you’re a coconut. So go back to where you came from.”

“But I never understood why a coconut was a bad thing because coconuts are awesome. So I used to call myself Coconut Baby and the nickname stuck. So when I was thinking of a name for my company I wanted it to tie in with my Caribbean heritage and I decided to call it Coconut Baby.”

Allison was never ashamed of her parents’ culture (they are both Bajans) and her upbringing. In fact, she wanted to learn as much as she could about the Caribbean and its diverse history. She not only identified with the customs of the region, she wanted to show how proud she was of her lineage.

“I have always loved Barbados,” she said. “And as a kid I always felt connected to Barbados. In the States my parents always asked me where I am from because I kept saying I was from Barbados. They would laugh at me and say that I haven’t even seen Barbados.

“I wanted to move here several times but people around me asked, “Why would you want to live there? Nothing is happening there. You should stay in the United States. But I was drawn to my roots and eventually I had to move.”

Caribbean people were known for their exquisite cuisine, bold flavours and unique herbs and spices and after learning more about her people she wanted to choose a career that would allow her to connect to the hearts of people in the region. She became passionate about cooking, and tapping into her heritage helped.

First, though, she gained certification in graphic design.

“I’m a creative person and graphic design was what I chose but I also loved to cook. When I did graphic design I felt it was important to know about the marketing side because one should know about all aspects of their career pursuits. Then when I decided it was time for me to get accreditation in culinary I owned a small cake business.”

What Allison has done is figured out a way for people to indulge in sweet treats without the side effects of extreme calorie intakes. She strikes the perfect balance between sweet and nutritious and savoury and healthy.  

This new way of life was not intentional and it definitely was not something Allison saw coming. Nevertheless, she was able to use the skills, techniques and knowledge she developed in culinary school.

“The transition wasn’t completely smooth but I appreciated it because it taught me that I am more self-efficient and reliant than I thought. For example, when I lived in the States, I didn’t have a driver’s licence but I got it right before I left and it came in handy here.

“When I came here I was a lot heavier, I was around 300 pounds and I started yoga. People in my class asked me if I did vegan cakes and I was like, ‘Why would I do that? That is crazy.’ But I tried it and they really liked it and encouraged me to do it more often.

“Funny enough I have a certificate in raw food preparation so I had no trouble looking for recipes and getting familiar with vegan food.”

She began to build her lifestyle around veganism. She made natural juices sweetened with agave and created her own recipes with unusual combinations such as carrot citrus punch, watermelon passion fruit and cucumber lemonade.

And she found these fruity cocktails did well at different farmers markets. 

She also makes kombucha, a fermented tea. This can help with several health issues and weight loss. Allison said drinking kombucha helped her to shed pounds.

“I am not skinny, I am still big but I am a lot smaller than I was. I changed my lifestyle and did not eat as much processed and fried foods and resorted to a more plant-based diet.

“In this way, all of my creations are more personalised because I draw from my experiences. So the ethos of my company is really guided about how I changed my livelihood. I just like the concept of making healthier food that people can enjoy.”

Try one of Allison’s vegan meals especially her well-known tacos. She sells them at the Moonlight Bazaar at Neil’s Plantation. Her tacos are infused with some of the most colourful herbs and spices and unusual flavour combinations.

“At the last bazaar the tacos I had roasted veggies, with a black bean and corn salsa, Mexican salad, radishes, hicomat, apple slices and it was topped with a vegan cheese sauce, avocado crème and garlic and herbed aioli.

“I also do a Bajan falafel with chickpeas balls, seasoned with Bajan seasoning, so every month I try to offer a different menu. I know vegan food is something only vegans would want to eat, but I am trying to make it as appealing to everyone else.”

Allison uses alternatives such as flaxseeds and sea moss to replace fatty ingredients. She said one can use coconut oil instead of butter but did not want to reveal how she combines these natural ingredients to make impressive hearty meals.

For AgroFest 2017, she came up with her own take on cupcakes in a jar.

Although Allison has a successful business she does not like to blow her own trumpet.

“People always say I have reached a level of success and I always ask them what they mean. I think going on Bank On Me last year really helped me elevate my business and for that I’m extremely grateful. It also gave me exposure but at the end of the day I am still the chief cook and bottle washer of my business.”

The owner of the three-year-old company said there are business development programmes that small business owners should take advantage of.

“I think people are not aware of these programmes to better their business. However, programmes such as the Barbados Investment and Development Corporation, Cultural Industries development Authority, Barbados Small Businesses Association and Youth Entrepreneurship Scheme are all entities that help tremendously at transforming your products. If we do not utilise the service eventually they will discontinue because the board members would feel like no one needs them.”

Like any other entrepreneur, Allison has big plans for her business – to go mainstream and be the go-to vegan outlet regionally.

Recently, Allison published her very own cookbook with numerous recipes of delicious Caribbean home-style meals. She said she was able to learn about the diverse cultures of people while living in the United States and she used the information to her advantage. She said she enjoyed staying ahead in the culinary industry and thinking outside the box.