Weekend Nation Editor Antoinette Connell recently visited China to participate in the two-week Professional Programme for Journalists from Caribbean Countries organised by the state-funded China Foreign Affairs University. It included lectures and study tours on China’s economy, foreign policy, culture and media. This week Connell begins a series of articles on the Eastern civilisation.
“You come out the same way you go in,” our Chinese tour guide mustered in her best English.
She was addressing a group of Caribbean journalists and government employees at the bottom of one of the Seven Wonders of the world, the Great Wall of China, this section located in its capital Beijing.
Her words were meant as directions in case we got separated in the thousands that thronged the ancient site, but they struck a chord with me. There’s no way that you can experience the Great Wall and leave the same way, I thought, as I surveyed the grandeur of the ancient site in amazement.
The construction of wall which spans nine provinces from east to west began during the Spring and Autumn of 770-476 BC and Warring States (475-221) during the Eastern Zhou dynasty. The length of the architectural wonder left over from the Qin, the Han and the Ming dynasties is 3 948 miles and it comprises watchtowers, castles and fortresses.
Of the more than ten things on my bucket list, visiting the Great Wall was right up there, along with the Pyramids, Stone Henge, Old Bailey, possible interview with Nelson Mandela, meeting Vladimir Putin and . . . the list goes on briefly, mainly because I did not have a plan.
Now here I stood at the foot of the majestic wall built in keeping with the best tradition of security akin to the Biblical Walls of Jericho and the mythical City of Troy. This western intruder was about to best the wall’s challenge, “He who hasn’t climbed up the Great Wall is not a true man” or some such.
For a while my comfortable shoes lightly tapped the brick and granite ground as I joyfully ascended the wall, energised by the sheer thought of actually realising one of my dreams.
I occasionally looked over my shoulder or ahead for a familiar face as by now the group had dissipated, leaving Taneka Thompson, my comrade from The Bahamas, Claudia Monlounis from St Lucia and myself.
I did not always find a familiar face but I was struck by the friendly gazes and the outright looks of amazement, which by now I knew had something to do with the colour of my skin. Nevertheless, the gawking often gave way to smiles.
I was also struck by the number of elderly making the climb assisted by the young. Respecting the elderly is a traditional Chinese virtue, and as far back as the Han Dynasty those over 70 were issued walking sticks, which ensured special treatment.
I marvelled at the determination of the old and admired the youth as I followed the wall’s snaking course over a variety of terrains until I was jolted on reaching an almost perpendicular area of the wall.
There was sharp contrast in the posture of those on their way up who were bent almost to the ground and those on the way down who leant so far back they were almost lying down.
The warm sun beating down was offset by the chill in the autumn air on a clear October 20 day. At 7.8 meters up I stopped to catch my breath before attempting the steep section, which had no steps to assist in the climb.
Leaning against a weather-beaten handrail, I started snapping photographs though I doubted I would ever forget any aspect of the historic splendour of the wall.
Schoolchildren were on field trips while international visitors stood in awe of the structure. There was no pushing or shoving; not an angry face – just peace.
As I took in all this human traffic and sipped some water, a small voice penetrated my consciousness. Taneka, deathly afraid of heights, needed a hand in overcoming this particular hurdle. So hands interlocked, Taneka, Claudia and I made our way over the incline.
It was at this point the significance of the symbolism of the wall dawned on me. Built by soldiers, civilians, farmers and prisoners, it took a unified effort thousands of years ago to create what would become a modern day symbol of the Chinese undaunted spirit. Emboldened by this thought, we completed our tour of duty.
Forming a greater friendship and leaving the wall changed by the spirit that dwelled within.
