I RECENTLY spent three weeks between Canada and Ireland. I met up with friends in Canada and 12 of us travelled to Ireland for a two-week private guided tour around the country of my ancestors.
The claim by the Vagabond Tour Company that Ireland is “one of the most fascinating and diverse countries in the world; history, culture, myths and legends abound throughout the beautiful Irish landscapes; humour, charm, hospitality and a touch of Blarney run deep through the Irish people”, was certainly borne out during our two-week trip around the country.
I noticed some similarities to Barbados, but many differences. The most striking difference is the uniformly lush green countryside, the result of course of the seemingly continuous rain, in striking contrast to the severe drought conditions which confronted me on my return home. In fact, it’s been said that you know it’s summer in Ireland when the rain gets warmer. Singer Johnny Cash was certainly accurate in his description of Ireland as having “Forty Shades of Green”.
Although pharmaceuticals, computer components, medical technology and international services rank much higher than agriculture in Ireland’s economy, it was heartening to see the attention paid to keeping lands cultivated. There’s more emphasis on livestock (cattle and sheep) than on crops, so the countryside is replete with neatly kept pastures separated by stone fences, with grazing cattle and sheep. The Irish proudly promote their meats as grass fed. Barley, canola, sugar beet, potatoes and other crops are grown on a more limited (although extensive by our standards) area. Ireland exports about 0.9 billion euros in agri-foods annually.
The government’s Rural Environmental Programme provides grants to farmers to use sustainable and environmentally friendly farming methods to keep land in cultivation and to preserve the surrounding environment and wildlife. Why do we in Barbados find that concept so difficult to understand?
It’s well known that Ireland is experiencing many of the problems we’re facing, such as a very large debt. However, signs of recession aren’t obvious and while the population is heavily taxed, one can see that the funds are well spent and the countryside is well maintained. Although we travelled through the back roads of the rural areas, we didn’t encounter a single poorly paved road (contrast that to our potholes even on main roads), the entire country was immaculately clean, with absolutely no litter or uncollected household garbage strewn around. Although their unemployment rate has increased, we saw no obvious signs of poverty and begging, so perhaps their social services are intact. It seems Ireland is “bouncing back”.
Tourism is a growing industry and there are pubs with excellent food everywhere. Service is excellent, staff pleasant and helpful, and no tips are expected. Another thing which struck me is the pride the Irish people have in their locally produced foods. I don’t remember seeing rice on a menu and of course potatoes, beef, lamb and seafood were presented in some form or fashion at every meal.
Ireland is a significant exporter of seafood, including mussels. We actually saw how mussel farming is done – ropes are set in the water and the mussels which attach themselves to the ropes are harvested 18 months later.
What I did find similar to Barbados was the fact that many people didn’t pronounce “th”, so one would hear about “tree tousand” people doing “dis or dat”. It’s not difficult to see where we got that from.
Then there was a bit of a laid back attitude with regard to timeliness, particularly in the smaller towns. A store sign would indicate a 10 o’clock opening time but when you found the store still closed at that time and enquired about it, you would be told that ten was merely an estimated time, it was really “ten-ish” or could be even 11.
Communicating with home was a bit difficult in spite of the Irish being communications giants. International telephone cards didn’t work and wi-fi was often spotty.
On our last day I had a most interesting and enjoyable experience. They say wherever you go in the world you’ll find a Bajan. But what are the chances of having three Bajans in St Patrick’s Cathedral in Dublin at the same time? I couldn’t believe it when I saw Dr and Mrs Grenville Phillips touring the cathedral. What a nice surprise!
•Dr Frances Chandler is a former Independent senator. Email fchandler@caribsurf.com.
